How to Operate a Skid Steer: A 10-Point Pre-Start Checklist from a Guy Who's Seen Wrong Levers and Bent Frames

Who This Checklist is For (And Why You Need It)

If you're about to hop into a skid steer for the first time—or the first time in a while—this list is for you. Maybe you've operated a John Deere 210 excavator and think the controls are the same. Maybe you're a construction foreman who just bought a used machine and needs to break in a new operator. Or maybe you're like the client I got a call from in March 2024, 36 hours before a big job, who had bent the frame on a rental because he didn't check the parking brake.

This isn't a substitute for the manual. It's a practical, ten-point pre-start and operation checklist I've developed after coordinating over 200 rush deliveries and emergency fixes for construction and landscaping firms. I've seen what happens when someone skips step three. I've seen the $8,000 repair bill. I've also seen the 5-minute check that saves it.

Here are the steps. Do them in order.

Step 1: The Walk-Around (Don't Just Look at the Tires)

Most beginners kick the tires and hop in. Don't be most beginners.

What to check:

• Fluid leaks: Look under the machine. A few drops of hydraulic fluid is a warning. A puddle means a line is compromised. I've seen a $500 hose failure turn into a $4,000 pump replacement because someone ignored a drip.
• Loose bolts or pins: Check the loader arm pivot points and quick-attach plate. If you see a loose bolt on a John Deere 135 excavator's cousin (the skid steer), take a photo and report it. Don't start the engine.
• Tire condition: Check for cuts, bulges, and proper pressure. A flat tire on a jobsite is annoying. A tire blowout on a slope is dangerous.
• Safety decals: Are they still readable? If not, the machine might not meet your site's safety requirements.

Step 2: The Seat Belt and Structure Check

Here's something vendors won't tell you: the 'operator presence' sensor systems are calibrated for an average-sized person. If you're significantly lighter, the system might not engage properly.

What to do:

• Buckle the seat belt before you start the engine.
• Pull down the rollover protective structure (ROPS) bar if your machine has one. It's not a suggestion. Trust me on this one.
• Check that the seat belt retracts and locks when you jerk it.

Step 3: The 'Headcanon' Start-Up (Controls Scan)

(Yes, I'm using 'headcanon' literally: the mental model you have of how the controls should work. This is where most people get into trouble.)

The question everyone asks is 'which lever does what.' The question they should ask is 'are these controls set up in ISO or H-pattern?'

Critical check:

• ISO controls: Left joystick controls drive (forward/back, left/right). Right joystick controls the boom (up/down) and bucket (tilt/curl).
• H-pattern controls: Left pedal = forward/back; Right pedal = left/right. Joysticks are for the bucket and boom.
• If you've only ever driven a John Deere 210 excavator (which uses ISO excavator controls), do not assume the skid steer is the same. Check the decal. I've had a client call me in a panic because they tried to 'excavator curl' and instead drove into a dumpster.

Step 4: The Low-Speed 'Weave' Test

Before you go anywhere near a pile of dirt, do this: Keep the bucket about 6 inches off the ground. Drive forward slowly. Weave left and right in a gentle S-curve. Listen to the engine. Listen to the hydraulics.

What you're looking for:

• Uneven steering: If the machine veers left when you're driving straight, the tracking is off or tires are mismatched.
• Hydraulic whine: A high-pitched whine when you turn the wheels under no load can mean low fluid or a failing pump. It does not mean 'it's just getting warmed up.'

Step 5: The Brake Check (This One Matters)

Most skid steers have hydrostatic drive. There's no 'brake pedal' in the traditional sense. You stop by moving the joystick to neutral. But there is a parking brake. Find it. Use it.

Test it:

• Engage the parking brake.
• Gently try to drive forward. The machine should not move.
• If it does, do not operate the machine. Call your dealer. This is how frames get bent and operators get hurt.

Step 6: The Bucket Curl and Load Test (Empty Bucket)

Now, lift the boom a few feet. Tilt the bucket back. Tilt it forward. Do it a few times. This action is the most common point of failure on used machines.

Watch for:

• Leaks at the cylinder seals: A tiny drip at rest is a normal aging seal. A leak when under pressure is a repair. Don't start the day's work if you see the latter.
• Boom drift: If the boom drops more than a few inches in 30 seconds with the controls in neutral, the spool valve is leaking internally. It's fine for light work, but it's a signal the machine is tired.

Step 7: First Load (20% Capacity, Not 100%)

Most buyers focus on the rated capacity (e.g., 2,500 lbs) and then immediately try to get a full bucket of wet sand. That's how you tip a machine or blow a hydraulic hose.

Your first real work should be:

• Scoop a partial load. About 20% capacity.
• Lift the boom halfway. Drive a short distance. See how the machine handles the weight. Does it pull to one side? Does the back end feel light?
• If stable, increase to 50%, then 80%. Never go straight to 100%. I learned this the hard way in my first year—assumed 'standard' meant the same thing to every vendor. Cost me a $600 repair on a hydraulic line.

Step 8: The 'Truck Bed' Unload (Mind the Tipping Point)

Dumping into a truck bed is where most skid steer accidents happen. The machine is designed to drive into the bed, but the center of gravity shifts dramatically.

The rule I follow:

• Back the skid steer up to the truck. Don't drive straight into it if you can avoid it.
• Lift the boom high enough to clear the truck rail, but not higher. If you lift too high, the machine wants to tip forward.
• When you dump the bucket, do it in slow increments. A full quick dump can push the machine back, or if you're on soft ground, tip it.

This was accurate as of Q1 2025. Machine designs change fast, so verify current safety standards for your specific model.

Step 9: Parking and Shutdown Protocol

This is the step everyone rushes through, especially on a hot day or at the end of a long shift.

Proper shutdown:

1. Lower the bucket to the ground. Do not leave it raised. The hydraulics will bleed down overnight, and someone will walk into it.
2. Neutralize the controls.
3. Engage the parking brake.
4. Let the engine idle for 30 seconds to cool the turbo (if equipped).
5. Turn the key off.

In my first year coordinating equipment, I saw a $12,000 project get delayed by a day because an operator left a skid steer bucket raised. The hydraulics leaked down overnight, the bucket dropped onto a concrete curb and cracked it. That's a 5-minute fix on paper, but it cost a day of arguing over liability.

Step 10: The Post-Shift Walk-Around (Yes, Do It Again)

Now, walk around the machine again. Look for fluid leaks, loose bolts, or any damage you may have caused. Note it in a log. Take a photo.

Here's the thing: if you don't note it today, and the next operator finds it tomorrow, you get blamed. A quick photo and a note on a clipboard is the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy. The 12-point checklist I created after my third mistake—not catching a leaking seal—has saved us an estimated $8,000 in potential rework.

Three Mistakes You'll Want to Avoid

Mistake 1: The 'John Deere 210 Excavator' Carryover

I mentioned this earlier, but it's worth repeating. A skid steer is not a mini-excavator. The controls are entirely different in terms of function. If you're an experienced operator moving from a John Deere 135 excavator to a skid steer, you are a beginner again. Accept it. Take the 10 minutes to do the checklist.

Mistake 2: Ignoring the Operator's Manual

I've seen operators treat the manual like a piece of trash. The manual contains the specific capacities, tire pressures, and maintenance intervals for your exact model. You can't rely on 'general knowledge.' General knowledge is how you overfill the hydraulic fluid on a John Deere 210 excavator—a mistake that foams the fluid and damages the pump.

Mistake 3: Using the Wrong Attachments Without Checking Flow

Attachments (like a Snow Blower or Grapple, for example) require a specific hydraulic flow rate. If you hook up an auger that needs 20 GPM to a machine that only puts out 15 GPM, you're not just going to have slow performance—you could overheat the hydraulic system and cause a $2,000 pump failure. Check the specs before you plug anything in.

Based on our internal data from 200+ rush jobs and emergency repairs, these three mistakes account for over 60% of our after-hours calls. Don't be a statistic.